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Long before movies like The Endless Summer and North Shore focused attention on the world-class surfing scene in Hawaii, natives had been enjoying the 50th state's "choice waves" for centuries. Prior to the arrival of Captain James Cook in 1778, Hawaiian royalty fashioned boards of koa wood and learned to he'e nalu (wave slide) around their islands. The optimal surf conditions coupled with the locals' love of water sports gave rise to the modern sport of surfing. As meteorologists and oceanographers can attest, there are specific reasons why Hawaii is so blessed with good surf. What exactly creates a good, surfable wave? It takes the
perfect combination of coral reefs, strong winds and tides, and beach or shore geography. Luckily, Hawaii possesses many examples of the above. Because of its remote location smack dab in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, the archipelago is the beneficiary of gusting wind patterns, ocean swells, and tropical currents from every direction. Couple that with thousands of miles of volcanic shores, coves, inlets, and ideally configured coral reefs, and you have the perfect recipe for reliable surf almost all year round. The Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay, both located on Oahu's famed North Shore, are among the most famous surfing spots in the world. The "Pipe" earned its nickname from the long barrel rides enjoyed by surfers. The waves here owe their enviable form to the infamous stretch of coral reef that plagues surfers near the shallow waters. Waves at the Pipe usually peak at 15-20 feet tall. Waimea, on the other hand, is what's known as a big wave beach. Just this month, waves there crested at a whopping 50 feet! Once again, the wave size and shape are due to its unique
bay and reef configuration. On the island of Maui, Ho'okipa Beach is a renowned windsurfing destination. Its long ride and waves are perfect for the sport. But Hawaii's most famous beach of all, Waikiki Beach, is the most inviting and least intimidating to surfers who are wet behind the ears. The long shore break and postcard-perfect views of Honolulu have made it the hotspot for longboard surfing, ever since the days of Olympic great Duke Kahanamoku.
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